Chain Link Fence Set Up: A Complete Installation Guide

tech@ninessquare.com
October 27, 2025
If you’re planning a chain link fence set up, this guide will walk you through every stage from planning and tools to installing posts, stretching the mesh, fitting gates, and tension wire setup. Chain link is one of the fastest and most cost-effective fence types.
Quick overview: what you’ll learn
- Site prep and planning
- Tools & materials checklist
- How to install chain link fence posts (line, terminal, and corner posts)
- How to fit and stretch the chain link fabric and tension wire
- Gate installation basics
- Common mistakes and how to avoid them
- Maintenance tips to keep the fence working for years
Tools & materials checklist
Tools
- Tape measure and permanent marker
- Line level and mason’s line (string)
- Post-hole digger or power auger
- Shovel and wheelbarrow
- Concrete mix and mixing tub (or bags)
- Wrenches and pliers (bolt cutters if needed)
- Tensioning tool (come-along or fence puller)
- Tension bar and brace bands driver (or spanner)
- Come-along and stretcher bar
- Hammer and post cap setter
- Safety gear: gloves, goggles, sturdy boots
Materials
- Line posts (steel) and terminal posts (corner, end, gate posts)
- Top rails and rail caps
- Tension bars, brace bands, rail ends, post caps, carriage bolts, nuts, washers
- Gate(s) and hardware (hinges, latch)
- Concrete (for posts)
- Tie wires or fence ties (to attach mesh to line posts/top rail)
Step 1 Plan your fence line and layout
- Locate property lines. Confirm boundary with survey markers or your local records. Don’t guess.
- Call before you dig. Get utilities marked (call your local utility call center).
- Mark the corners and gates. Use stakes and mason’s line to mark a straight line.
- Measure total length. Decide post spacing (commonly 8–10 ft for line posts, 6–8 ft for heavy-duty). Order materials with ~5–10% extra for waste.
Step 2 Dig holes and set terminal posts
Terminal posts (end, corner, gate posts) must be very strong.
- Hole deepness: Generally, 24–36 inches deep and about 8–12 inches diameter.
- Position terminal posts first: Ensure they are plumb and square use stays to hold them while concrete cures.
- Concrete: Pour concrete around the post to the recommended level (typically flush with ground or slightly crowned).
Step 3 Install line posts and top rails
- Spacing: Mark line post positions along the string line. Typical spacing is 8–10 ft.
- Dig and set: Dig each hole, place post, add concrete and level the post in line with the string. Let concrete set.
- Top rail: After posts are set, cut and attach top rails from terminal to terminal. Secure with set screws or rail bands.
Step 4 Prepare and unroll the chain link fabric
Tension bars: Insert a tension bar vertically through the end of the fabric where it will meet the terminal post. Attach with brace bands. Don’t fully tighten yet — you’ll stretch the fabric first.
Step 5 Tension wire setup
Tension wire adds strength, reduces sag, and helps keep the bottom secure.
- Decide placement: Typically run tension wire along the bottom and/or top of the fence. Bottom tension wire is helpful to stop pets from pushing under.
- Attach to terminal post: Run the wire from one terminal post to the next, securing with tension bands or anchor fittings on terminal posts.
- Tensioning: Use a come-along to tension the wire tight (not to deform posts). Lock off with wire clamps.
Step 6 Stretching and fastening the fabric
- Attach to tension wire/top rail: Clip the fabric to the tension wire and top rail temporarily.
- Stretch: Use a fence stretcher or come-along attached to the far end tension bar to pull the mesh tight. The goal is firm, even tension with no obvious waves.
- Secure to line posts: Use tie wires (or fence ties) every 2–4 feet up each post and along the top rail.
- Fix the end: Insert a tension bar through the far end, attach to the terminal post with brace bands, then tighten all terminal bands.
Step 7 Install gates
- Gate openings: Make sure gate posts are extra sturdy (bigger diameter or deeper holes).
- Fit hinges: Attach hinges to the posts then to the gate frame. Use shims if needed to keep the gate level.
- Latch placement: Install latch so it aligns easily and holds securely. Test swing and adjust.
- Ground clearance: Leave proper clearance so gate doesn’t drag — often 1–2 inches depending on terrain.
Troubleshooting & mistakes to avoid
- Wrong post depth: Too shallow posts will lean; set posts to recommended depths.
- Poor alignment: Use a tight string line to keep posts straight.
- Insufficient concrete or poor mixing: Use proper concrete mix and compaction to avoid wobble.
- Missing tension wire: Fabric will sag always use tension wire for longer spans or pet areas.
- Overstretching fabric: This can distort the mesh and strain posts stretch in moderate, controlled amounts.
- Not checking grade: On slopes, step the fence or use sloped posts; don’t try to force panels to match a slope.
Finishing touches & cleanup
- Trim excess fabric and fold cut ends inward. Cap all posts with post caps to keep water and debris out.
- Add bottom tension wire or bury the bottom loop if needed to prevent animals from digging.
Maintenance tips
- Inspect after storms for bent posts or loose ties.
- Lubricate gates annually and tighten bolts.
- Clean off debris and trim vegetation away from the mesh.
- Replace damaged mesh panels promptly to avoid progressive failure.
Cost & time estimate
- DIY small yard (50–150 ft): Materials $300–$900; add rental tools ($50–$150) and a full weekend of work.
- Professional install: $8–$25 per linear foot depending on height, terrain, and region. Gates and heavy-duty materials add cost.
- Time: DIY typically 1–3 weekends depending on crew size and site complexity.
Quick reference: post types & roles
- Terminal posts: End, corner, and gate posts must be strongest.
- Line posts: Support the mesh between terminals.
- Top rail: Keeps line posts aligned and supports top of mesh.
- Tension wire: Optional/ recommended; runs along bottom/top to prevent sag and deter animals.
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